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 stive » Ср май 28, 2008 12:33 pm
После замены сцепления заметил рваные опоры двигателя переднюю и заднюю по ходу авто.
Ровно через неделю на даче сменил.
Происходило так.
Приехал. Поднял передок. Поставил ланжеронами на два спиленых чурбана  Задние - на ручник и башмаки из дров под колёса.
После снял защиту картера. подставил ещё чурбанчик под картер.
Боялся "просядет".
Ничего подобного!
Передняя подушка открутилась и снялась без проблем.
Только вот ставиться на место ... надо было или поднимать двигатель, или откручивать продольную балку.
выбрал второе:
сразу же снял заднюю подушку.
Чтобы подлезть к ней, надо снимать жарозащитный кожух. открутить два болтика ключом на 10 и - лучше чуть выше 2 болтика на 15.
Всё переднюю можно крепить
Но сначала прикрутил заднюю, потом переднюю, затем балку на место.
может быть кто-то и скажет что зря ))) но...
задняя прорвалась ровно посередке.
передняя по краям...
Из хорошего.
Странная вибрация слегка ушла... ну... при торможении не бьёт.
Маленькая, но всё таки есть! 
из хренового - увидал как сильно начало подтекать масло вот отсель - где у некоторых других стоИт масляный радиатор.
Дополнения:
dimoonnSS
Удобнее все таки поднимать двигатель, а не опускать продольную балку, сделать это удобно домкратом за поддон, подложив широкую толстую доску.
Масло у меня тоже в этом районе течет, но пока толком не было времени разбираться откуда точно.
Ivanych
Давно собирался поменять подушки (передняя была мертвая), наконец нашел ключи, яму ну и сами запчасти приобрел.
Открутил переднюю без проблем, для того чтобы подобраться к задней, открутил не полностью жарозащитный кожух, только болты на 10-ть, и кожух чуть отогнул в сторону переда. Далее снял полностью продольную балку и заменил подушки. Собрал в обратной последовательности. Только перестарался при затягивании передней подушки к двигателю - свернул болтик. И тут я обратил внимание на разницу диаметра отверстия подушки 16мм и диаметр болта 10мм, куда такой зазор??? На 3-ей фотке у stive видна разница отверстий подушки и крепления двигателя. При чем на задней подушке все в норме.
Замена подушек №2
The Phase II S40/V40 has 4 total motor mounts. One front torque mount(radiator side) and one rear torque mount(firewall side) as well as two upper hydraulic side mounts.
The drivers side hydraulic mount supports the weight of the transmission side of the engine and is located under the air intake box. The passenger side hydraulic mount supports the weight of the motor and is located on the passenger side framerail in front of the power steering fluid reservoir.
This how-to will give simple instructions that can be used to replace the rest of the motor mounts on the vehicle, as well as mounts on phase 1 cars.
The hydraulic motor mounts are fluid filled rubber mounts and can be inspected by looking for the appearance of brown colored fluid dripping down the side of the mount and onto the framerail. If you can see what looks like oil spilling from your motor mount, it's time for a replacement.
The passenger side mount on phase II vehicles requires the use of a new bracket as well as the mount.
RH Mount - Volvo part # 30611474
Engine Mount Bracket - Volvo part # 30611471
The other Phase II engine mounts are as follows:
LH Rear Engine mount - Volvo part # 30620778
LH Front - Volvo part # 30611143
RH Rear - Volvo part # 30611465
The tools you need are as follows:
-socket set with 10mm, 15mm, and 17mm deep and standard length
-Torque wrench
-Jack
-wood block
-impact gun (or workbench with a solid vise grip)
Step 1. Support the weight of the engine with the jack, using a wood block to distribute the weight so that the oil pan isn't punctured.
Step 2. Remove the 10mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid reservoir. This will allow you to access the engine mount bracket bolts.
Step 3. Using the torque wrench loosen the 15mm nuts and bolts on the mount and bracket. Then remove the old mount and bracket. If you find it difficult to remove the old pieces, raise the engine more to take load off of the mounting bolts.
As you can see, the old mount's hydraulic fluid is easy to spot once broken.
Here is the old mount to show where the break occurs.
Here is the new mount to show the difference.
Step 4. Separate the old mount and bracket using a 17mm socket, this can be done easily with air tools, but if they're not available, you can just as easily secure the mount into a bench vise grip to untorque the bolt. You will reuse the bolt to secure the new mount and bracket.
Step 5. Secure the new mount and bracket. Be sure to add some loctite to the threads and torque to 85ftlbs.
Step 6. Reinstall the new mount and bracket in reverse order. You again might have to adjust the jack to allow the mount to slide smoothly into place. Again, add loctite to all threads and torque to 85ftlbs.
Step 7. Lower the jack and remove. Then recheck torque specs on all nuts and bolts, making sure everything torqued to 85ftlbs.
Step 8. Reinstall the 10mm bolts that secure the Power Steering fluid reservoir and you're done. After a few days of driving be sure to check the torque again on the bolts and you're good to go.
Next week I'll be doing the front and rear lower torque mounts. Stay Tuned
OK! here goes it.
First you'll need a socket set with 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, and 17mm sockets. You'll need a torque wrench, some wd-40 or other penetrating lubricant, also some degreaser like wheel cleaner. And of course, ramps or jackstands, or if you don't have either, improvise like i have and use wood and bricks.
First thing, get the car up on your ramps or jackstands.
Here is a picture of the old front and rear mounts, ugly!
First thing you remove, the lateral brace that runs between the lower control arms. You'll need a 14mm socket for this and a torque wrench or breaker bar of some type to break the torque on the bolts (2).
Then, the fun stuff. Now you're ready to remove the front-rear crossmember. This is held in place by (4) 17mm bolts with washers and bushings in place, as well as metal brackets to keep from twisting the bushings to pieces when torquing. Start with the rear and work your way to the front bolts. With all 4 bolts out, now you can remove the 15mm nut and bolt that hold the rear mount in place, now as the crossmember drops, remove the front 15mm nut and bolt holding the front mount in place. Now the crossmember will drop down and you can swap the mounts.
Here is a side by side comparison between the old and new mounts, you can tell they are blown when you can see daylight through them, or when they sag considerably.
These mounts were original from the factory and have 120,000 miles on them.
The rear, old and new.
The front ,new and old.
Once you've removed the old mounts from the crossmember, you should clean the surface of the crossmember and mounting holes for the bolts.
Now install the new mounts onto the crossmember, make sure they are pointed the correct direction and are located correctly, front and rear before proceeding. You can check to see if the mounts are correct by looking for the small arrow on them, the front should be pointing forward, the rear should be pointing toward the rear. I torqued the new mounts to the crossmember at 40ftlbs.
Now you are ready to install the crossmember. Begin at the rear, hold the rubber isolator in place on either side of the rear mount as you slide it into place, now push the bolt through and lightly tighten the nut to hold it in place.
Next, support the front of the crossmember with a jack or jackstand and then torque the crossmember rear using the shorter of the two sets of 17mm bolts. These should be torqued to 50ftlbs.
Now, slowly jack the mid-front of the crossmember up until the front crossmember bolt holes are lined up. Torque these using the longer 17mm bolts and torque to 50ftlbs.
Now, you can tighten the rear mount nut and bolt, tighten using two wrenches on either side and torque just past hand tight.
Now you can insert the front mount bolt through the front mount and torque to 40ftlbs.
Last, install the lateral brace onto the lower control arms, torque to 40ftlbs and you're done. Congrats on installing your motor mounts.
celebration new mount picture!!!
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